Sunday, March 6, 2011

FW2011 Favorites


Jil Sander
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Besides ultra romantic florals, I seem to be on a Jil Sander kick, no? I've always admired Raf Simons' use of rich color and his good taste and influences in art and films, but I was also instantly blown away by these simple 1960's influenced silhouettes. I'm clearly a big fan of French 60's music and fashion and it was a real delight to see Simons' using the same shapes in a very crisp, clean and modern way.

Maison Martin Margiela
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Seriously, did people not like this presentation? I thought the craftsmanship and "fucked-up-ness" that the Margiela team is so recognizable for was still present. Arguably too bulky, wearable and not weird enough? I don't think that means that this collection isn't a showmanship of how well the Margiela team is making interesting, innovative ideas. As for the bulky aspect, I'm always freezing during the winter, so I will bulk up the layering. I'm sure many women all over the world will too when the weather drops to freezing levels. People may whine about how the house is not the same without Margiela, but I think he clearly trusted his name to a team that he believed in.

Celine
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I loved every single damn look. Wood grain, streamlined cuts and warm color palettes. Since everything related to fashion that I love is a reference to film or music, I'd like you to turn your attention to Jacqueline Bisset in Bullit. Yes the movie with Steve McQueen and the unsane car chase. For some reason, that was all I thought about when I was scoping out this collection.

People are saying things like, "minimalism is back." Really, it never went anywhere. It's always been present, but it hasn't been as heavily used as it has in the past few seasons. Philo's return has only strengthened a movement towards simplicity and quality over embellishment and the over-designed.

Haider Ackermann
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Sweet-mother-of-god this was good. I think he really seems to understand what looks sexy and makes women feel sexy. Though, I wasn't really a fan of the heavy, oversized waist-cinchers he used in this show because I think Ackermann's craft can always stand alone without acessorizing at all. I recently procured a white kimono-style short jacket that is an extremely toned down version of Ackermann's Asian influenced pieces from SS11, but I definitely had his collections in mind when purchasing it.


all images via vogue
photogs: Monica Feudi, Marcus Tondo and Marcio Madeira
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