Miu Miu
I actually really enjoyed the Miu Miu show this season, even all the bejeweled pieces (I personally hate most embellishments but these weren't so bad). After all the heavy black we've been wearing all summer, I'd like for girls to start looking like little Lolita sexpots. I think Miuccia got the idea down perfectly. It's a little charming, a little sexy, a tad naked and a bit sweet at the same time. I especially love the incorporation of quirky cat prints too, but I'm sure that's obvious.
Limi Feu
—"C'est un peu de Yohji Yamamoto?
Just like many young women, Limi Feu is a daddy's girl. I think it's smart for Limi to recognize the importance of her heritage. In a lot of her past pieces, I thought that the Japanese staple of adrogyny was represented in a lot of her pieces even if she is recognised for being more feminine. I especially liked that she had some older, fatherly models (filling in for dad perhaps?). She may not want to be compared to her father, but that doesn't mean that she doesn't love her father's work nor will she admit that she is heavily influenced by it.
Prada
Bright red lips, fruzzy pigtails, 50s/60s references and girls strutting down a runway in short shorts (and some completely sans pants). It must be obvious that I would be a big fan of this show. I don't think I've mentioned that I am a obsessive collector of high-waisted under garments and bloomers (something that has left me with only the option of high-waisted trousers, jeans, micro-shorts and skirts, which I'm perfectly content with).
The fact that Miuccia is happy with paring grown up trenches with something associated with youthful girlishness makes me smile. I think here it works very well.
Erdem
There is a photograph of my friend Shelly's parents that my boyfriend and I are obsessed with. Imagine young Chinese-American mods in the early 1960s wearing the exact same looks as those perfect colorful cheongsam dresses and impecable pressed white shirts shown in that film I'm so obsessed about, In the Mood For Love. After seeing these Far East Asian influenced printed dresses and shoes, it reminds me of how much I love bright flowers fitted snuggly against the body. Just beautiful.
Haider Ackermann
Normally I really hate utilitarian looking clothing. The sight of cargo pockets actually makes me cringe. But I am a sucker for bold colors like saffron yellow and deep blue as well as good draping, which Ackermann used to top off a strong show of beautifully constructed dresses. I've been enjoying his work these past seasons which have variations of similar looks (impeccably constructed leather, jaw-dropping maxi/mini dresses). The last look is especially priceless.
It's refreshing to see a designer show strong this season (I'm I the only one who thought most of the show were boring? My usual favorites like Yohji, Balenciaga and CDG were all snores). I suppose I feel this way because there were very good shows during men's fashion week. This season's women's runway show seems to be feeling more pressure, and it shows.
Ann Demuelemeester
What can I say? Always dead-on good in my opinion.
all images from style.com
No comments:
Post a Comment